Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
